Arkansas was noticeably more attractive than OK. The hills rolled green and thin forests lined the highway. Lunch was approaching and since we weren’t going to stay the night in AR we decided that we should at least grab some food. After some extensive Yelping we determined that in Fort Smith, AR there just might possibly be some amazing Viet food. It seemed an odd choice in the land of BBQ and fried chicken, but we figured that we’d have enough of that in the days to come.
We continued on through AR and got into Memphis just as night fell. We were staying in a state park that was located in the southwest corner of the city. It was a nice change because usually state parks with camping are located far from major cities. We set up camp and headed out for the night.
We weren’t sure what to expect. It was clear that we had crossed over into a different world. The billboards showed fetuses and asked for mercy, the people spoke with a slow twang that was like another language, the liquor stores had drive-thrus, but refused to sell on Sundays.
We strolled onto the street and instantly blues riffs poured out of bars and into our hearts. Our ears lifted up and we roamed the land looking for drinks and Leadbelly’s twelve bars. Within minutes we had beers in our hands and blues on the mind. Every bar had a band or at least a guitarist showing off his chops.
The next morning we were still talking about the amazing coolness and the “It” that Memphis’ Beale Street contained. The feel of the street was contagious and we were sad that we were leaving town later that day. We headed off for the National Civil Rights Museum realizing that we were about to see another much sadder part of the south.
The National Civil Rights Museum was possibly one of the best historical museums I have ever visited. It is housed in the Lorraine Hotel in which Martin Luther King was assassinated in 1968. Deceivingly small looking from the outside, we ended up spending almost 3 hours looking at the exhibit. It took viewers from the slave riots of the 1700s all the way up through modern day struggles, with the climax and majority of the presentation devoted to the civil rights movement of the 1950s and 60s.
Actually getting to walk into the room that MLK stayed in the day he was shot was eerie. They had preserved the room as it had been on that day with its scattered coffee cups and cigarette butts. The exhibit also contained a fascinating look at the different conspiracy theories that surrounded MLK’s assassination. There was no idea left uncovered and they even had each piece of evidence presented at James Earl Ray’s trial.
Before we left we also made a quick stop by Sun Studios. This is the studio that introduced the world to Elvis, Johnny Cash and many other famous rockabilly stars of the '50s and '60s. They had records lining the wall and too much music memorabilia to list. Among this was one of Johnny Cash's guitars and Elvis's shoes. A pretty cool stop, but a small place.
We finished off our trip to Memphis with a stop at Interstate BBQ. We fed our faces with pork ribs, BBQ chicken, BBQ spaghetti (yes, spaghetti), and, unbelievably, a BBQ baloney sandwich. Mylinh, being a spam lover, requested this concoction and it wasn’t half bad. It kind of tasted like a hot dog, shaped like a hamburger and layered with BBQ sauce. Overall, I left with one thought: I will never tire of BBQ.